Ama Dablam Expedition 2024- 2025

Trip Overview

Highlights,

• Technically Challenging Mountain in the  Khumbu Region
• Climb Ama Dablam and Lobuche East
• Fully supported Expedition with the best Sherpa support
• A True Alpinist Dream.

Ama Dablam Expedition 2024-2025 Overview

Maximum altitude	6,812m(20,283ft
Total Duration	30 days
Coordinate	27.8619° N, 86.8612° E
Climbing Route	South- West ridge
Grade	Strenuous+
Group size	Min2 max 13
Activity	Mountaineering and climbing

      Ama Dablam, a technical peak in the Everest region of the Himalayas, is well-known as "mountaineer's mountain." Its height is 6812 meters. The name Ama Dablam, which translates to "Mother's Jewel," comes from the glacier that is waiting to be seen from the southwest face. It resembles a gem hanging from the neck of a mountain; it is a steep pyramid of ice with sharp, exposed ridges and vertical walls. Acquire the technical climbing experience necessary to summit this spitzen peak. The Ama Dablam summit offers sweeping vistas of eight-thousanders, including Lhotse, Everest, Cho Oyu, and Makalu.Our climbing route for the Ama Dablam Expedition takes the usual path across the southwest ridge and up to the summit.

What distinguishes our Ama Dablam Expedition?

As part of our Ama Dablam Expedition, we will ascend Lobuche Peak (6119m/20,075ft) in order to reduce the number of times higher camps on Ama Dablam rotate. Trek to Kalapathar and Everest base camp, ascend Lobuche East, and at last, arrive at Ama Dablam base camp well-prepared and acclimated.

Rather than completing several rotations on upper camps on Ama Dablam, we will travel to Kalapathar, climb Lobuche East Peak, and trek to Everest base camp before moving on to Ama Dablam. We intend to use this method/strategy on our upcoming trips to Ama Dablam since it produced a better success rate on our previous excursion there.

Those that acclimatized on a different mountain had a higher success rate in our past Ama Dablam expeditions. By doing this, the climber can ensure that they reach the Amadablam base camp properly prepared, well-acclimatized, and with new climbing skills on lower peaks.

Our well-equipped base camp on Ama Dablam ensures a comfortable stay for every climber. Amadablam Base Camp is where we will spend a few days resting, getting ready, training, and participating in a puja ritual.

Before reaching the summit, there are three further campgrounds located higher than the base camp. Camps 1 and 2 will be located at 5,600 meters and 18,368 feet, respectively, and 6,300 meters and 19,354 feet, respectively.

We depart early in the morning during the summit push from base camp to camp 1, camp 1 to camp 2, then from camp 2 to the summit.

Day 01 – Climb to Camp 1 (5,600m/18,368ft) and O/N
Day 02 – Climb to Camp 2 (5,900m/19,352ft) and O/N
Day 03 – Summit push (6,812m/20,283ft) and return to Camp 2
Day 04 – Return to base camp 

 Please be aware that because every climber reacts differently to altitude, the above summit strategy may change during the adventure.

Our small, tight-knit group of climbers will be participating in the Ama Dablam Expedition in 2023. We maintain a limited group size in order to maximize effectiveness and efficiency.

 Why join us on Ama Dablam's Expedition?

•        Guided by some of the best guides and the Sherpa team.

•        1:1 Sherpa to climber ratio on summit day

•        Quality and safety of the expedition

•        Premier climbing experience on Ama Dablam

•        A small and cohesive team of climbers

•        A long history of high-altitude expeditions.

The individuals in charge of this endeavor have successfully planned high-altitude expeditions for more than 25 years, always putting safety first and customer satisfaction first. Our company provides the greatest logistics and a meticulously planned schedule, all of which are essential to the expedition's success. Our goal is to keep the excursion successful and safe while providing high-quality service. Maintaining the small group is always our top priority so that communication and collaboration are simple. The most skilled and knowledgeable mountain guides in the business will be guiding you.

 We are dedicated to providing the highest professionalism throughout the expedition by taking utmost care of all the logistics needed for our Ama Dablam Expedition

 Customized Journey on Ama Dablam:

If you have any special needs or preferences, we would be happy to provide a customized trip on Ama Dablam.

We recognize that not everyone will be a good fit for our Ama Dablam Expedition Program in terms of choices, needs, and duration. Please get in touch with us if you have any specific requests or personal preferences that you believe may aid in your summit achievement so that we can talk about creating an adventure that is just right for you.

Important Note:  Ensuring your safety is our top priority when traveling with Highland Expeditions. Remember that in case your safety becomes an issue, your leader/guide has the right to change or cancel any portion of the program. While we will do our best to adhere to the following schedule, we cannot guarantee that we won't stray from it because this expedition involves traveling through isolated mountainous areas. Unexpected natural disasters, bad weather, a group member's health, etc., can all cause itinerary modifications. Although your leader or guide will make every effort to make sure the trip goes as planned, please be ready to adjust plans as needed.

Trekking Schedule:

Day 1: Arrival in Kathmandu [1,350 feet/4,430 meters]

    Arrival in Nepal at the Tribhuvan International Airport. Once you have finished the visa process and picked up your bags at the airport, please head to the arrival hall exit. You can find your trip leader waiting for you outside the arrival hall, and they will take you to your Kathmandu hotel. Kindly keep an eye out for a  Alpine Excursion Treks' sign board.

          Day 02 - In Kathmandu for official formalities and last minute preparation [1,350m/4,430ft]

          Day 03 - Fly to Lukla and trek to Phakding [2,600m/8,531ft]

          Day 04 - Trek to Namche Bazar [3,450m/11,319ft]

          Day 05 - Rest and Acclimatization day [3,450m/11,319ft]

          Day 06 - Trek to Deboche [3720 m/12,205ft]

          Day 07 - Trek to Dingboche [4,412m/14,475ft]

          Day 08 - Rest and Acclimatization day [4,412m/14,475ft]

          Day 09 - Trek to Lobuche [4,910m/16,109ft]

          Day 10 - Trek to E.B.C [5,364m/17,559ft] and retrace back to Gorekshep [5,140m/16,864ft]

          Day 11 - Hike up to Kalapattar [5,545m/18,193ft] and retrace back to Lobuche [4,910m/16,109ft]

          Day 12 - Move to High Camp [5,250m/17,224ft] and do climbing training

          Day 13 - Summit Lobuche Peak [6,119m/20,075ft] and descend to Thugla

          Day 14 - Trek to Pangboche [3,985m/13,075ft]

          Day 15 - Trek to Ama Dablam Base Camp [4,420m/14,502ft]

          Day 16-17 - Rest, Puja Ceremony & Climbing Clinic

          Day 18-22 - Summit push and back to base camp

          Day 23-24 - Contingencies Day

          Day 25 - Trek to Pangboche [3,985m/13,075ft]

          Day 26 - Trek to Namche Bazar [3,450m/11,319ft]

          Day 27 - Trek to Lukla [2,800m/9187ft]

          Day 28 - Fly back to Kathmandu [1,350m/4,430ft]

          Day 29 - In Kathmandu [1,350m/4,430ft]

          Day 30 - International departure

Essential Information;

Difficulty,

Ama Dablam is a difficult mountain in Nepal's Khumbu region that features exposed ridge climbing and mixed terrain (rock, ice, and snow).  High levels of fitness and at least some prior expertise with moderate technical climbing are prerequisites. You must be extremely comfortable with jumping and abseiling on fixed ropes because the majority of Ama Dablam's part is fixed rope climbing. There is a hard climb with some nearly vertical ice and rock between Camp 1 and Camp 3. Climbers should prepare for several days of intense weather and high altitude climbing.

The path consists of an ice pyramid with exposed, sharp ridges and high walls. Acquire the technical climbing experience necessary to summit this spitzen peak.

Prerequisite,

For a technical climb, climbers must have a solid climbing history and intermediate ability levels. You must be proficient in cramponing and rock climbing, as well as able to rappel while wearing a pack. Given that you will be operating in harsh environments for the most of the trip, prior experience scaling a 6,000-meter mountain is necessary. Climbers need to be exceptionally fit and able to function at a high level for extended periods of time at high altitudes.

One must have a strong will and a strong desire to climb the mountain in order to participate in this category adventure. It is necessary to be accustomed to hiking with a pack on through snow, ice, and rock. You ought to be knowledgeable

It is advised to begin training well in advance, at least six months before the commencement of the expedition. You will do much better if you do cross-fit, walk uphill while wearing a hefty backpack in exposed areas, and engage in other physical activities. Discuss your physical condition with your physician, and follow a well-balanced training, nutrition, and rest schedule. Finally, mental toughness is essential for a great climbing experience because it is all mind over body.

Sherpa Guides,

For the climbs you undertake with us to be successful, our Sherpa crews are essential. Although we are not hikers or climbers in the mountains, we are professionally qualified Sherpa guides and sirdars who have been taught to carry out this duty with a great deal of cunning and common sense.

Meals,

We believe that having tasty and nourishing meals is essential to the overall success of our trips. We take great care in preparing the food to the highest standards of quality and hygiene during the flight. At Base Camp, our High Altitude Chef will be there for every meal. Your meals will be served in the teahouse/lodge where you will be staying throughout the hike. Additionally, just breakfast will be served in Kathmandu so that you have the most freedom to choose where, what, and with whom to have lunch and supper.Please inform us in advance if you have any special dietary needs, and we will make every effort to meet them.

Accommodation ,

We provide each climber with an individual tent at the base camp during an entire expedition. Each tent will have spacious space, comfortable mattresses, carpeted floor and more for your comfort. Higher above from base camp, a high-quality extreme weather tent will be provided for every 2 climbers.We do not emphasise more on luxurious things as to unnecessarily increase the cost and human effort but we make sure that you get a good rest.

Approach,  

We'll ascend to the peak by taking the usual path over the southwest ridge. There is no avalanche risk on this route, making it the safest one. We must traverse 40–45 degree gradients. A successful ascent requires a well-thought-out plan of action. For adequate acclimatization, we will stay in Amadablam Base Camp for a few days. Prior to the last push for the summit, High Camp rotation works well. We will therefore practice ascending to Camp 2 (5900m) and descending to Lower Camps in order to ensure that our bodies are properly acclimated to the elevated air. We will transport a light load to Camp 1 (5700m) on the first rotation, after which we will head back to our Base Camp. Our next rotation will see us spend the night at Camp 1 and

Group size,

Maintaining the small group is always our top priority so that communication and collaboration are simple. We only accept up to 10 people in each group due to our small group sizes. If you choose to go on our "fixed departure trip," you will probably be traveling with individuals of all ages, save for children, who are traveling from various nations. The lowest number of individuals needed to run the trip is one, and the maximum is ten for each group. The size of the group fluctuates.

Insurance ,

 Obtaining rescue insurance is both required and strongly advised prior to starting any hazardous travels in Nepal. We encourage every one of our clients to purchase insurance that includes emergency helicopter evacuation in the event that AMS (acute mountain sickness) strikes or for any other reason that requires being in high altitudes without access to other forms of transportation. Before deciding, it is best to carefully go over the insurance and its coverages. On the holiday, bring proof of your insurance and place a copy close to your relatives. Make sure your insurance covers you for the activities involved and offers a sufficient degree of protection.

Communication,

Throughout the Ama Dablam Expedition, each member of the group will have a satellite phone for emergency use. While there is cell phone coverage at base camp and during the trekking portion, it is unreliable and subject to weather fluctuations. The satellite phone costs $3 per minute if you need to use it for a personal call.

Weather,

The autumn season (October to the end of November) is the ideal time of year for the Amadablam trip. There aren't many climbing teams in the spring, but the likelihood of reaching the summit is quite slim because of the blue ice, erratic weather, and unsteady terrain.

Equipment Checklist,

The following equipment is needed for the expedition. We sincerely ask that you verify and test each piece of equipment before purchasing any of the ones listed below. The same are available in various hiking shops in Kathmandu, ranging from branded to local makers, so you can also buy or rent them there.

Head:

- Warm Hat and Bandana/Scarf

- Baseball cap

- Thermal Balaclava / Buff

- Sunglasses with UV protection

- Ski goggles (Anti-fog and good ventilation)

- Headlight X 2 with spare batteries

- Climbing helmet

Upper body:

- Long-sleeved shirts

- T-Shirts

- Baselayers

- Warm Jackets/Sweater/Pullover

- Waterproof jackets

- Down Jacket with hood (800m fill)

- Primaloft or light down jacket

- Down Suit (Lightweight, comfortable fit and 800m fill)

Lower body:

- Thermal

- Inner wears / Baselayers

- Undergarments

- Waterproof trousers

- Trekking trousers

- Down or Primaloft pants

Feet:

- Warm socks (4 pairs thin socks and 4 pairs thick socks)

- Trekking shoes (Preferably full to protect/support your ankle)

- 8000m Mountaineering boots (Lightweight and comfortable size)

- Camp Shoes

- Gaiters

- Down shoe

Hands

- Gloves

- Primaloft Mitten

- Down Mitten

Climbing equipment:

- Backpack 30-35 litres (To carry your sunblock, water, camera, waterproof jackets and others that you may require while trekking)

- Backpack 60-70 litres for climbing

- A pair of trekking poles

- Harness

- Ascender/Jumar (Large handle)

- Descender /Figure 8

- ATC Guide

- Carabiners (4 screw gate and 4 snap gate)

- Prussik cord X 2

- Slings X 2

- Ice Axe

- 12-points steel crampons

- Inflatable sleeping mattress

- Sleeping bag X 2 (One for base camp and one for higher camps)

Others:

- Trekking poles

- Water bottle one (1) litre X 2 with an insulated cover

- Thermos

- Multi-tool knife

- Pee bottle

- Laundry bag to keep the dirty clothes

- Large plastic bags to keep the clothes dry

- Padlock

- Binoculars

- Sewing kit

- Duct tape

- Reading materials, notebooks and pens

- Extra clothes to wear in Kathmandu when you come back from the expedition.

- Camera with charger or spare batteries

Toiletries and hygiene

- Quick-drying towel

- Small face towel

- Toothbrush &Toothpaste

- Deodorants, Soap and Shampoo (Smaller bottle)

- Face and body moisturizer, Sunscreen and lip balm

- Hand sanitiser/Antiseptic wipes

- Hygiene products

- Basic first aid kit

Documents

- Passport with visa and validity of 6 months after your trip completion

- 4 copies of passport size photos for permits and official formalities

- Travel Insurance (Please refer to the general information page for more detail about it)

- Flight tickets

- Credit cards in case of emergencies

- Driving ID or any other ID in case of loss of your passport.

(Please leave a copy with your next of kin and bring a photocopy of every document with you.)

 Other Information ,

   After you have registered for the expedition, you will receive more information about the trip, such as insurance, arrival instructions, visa and passport requirements, etc. If you need any information about the trip, don't hesitate to contact us.